Category Archives: footwear

Soft Star Portlander: A Shoe Review

I’ve had my eye on the Soft Star Shoe company for some time now. They handcraft footwear in the USA at their workshop in Corvallis, Oregon. Save for some extra special vegetable-tanned leather imported from Germany, all of Soft Star’s leathers are sourced from the USA. The workshop is 100% powered by wind and solar energy, and employs about every eco-friendly practice in the book to maintain a minimal carbon footprint. It’s clear that the company has fun creating and promoting their products. When they asked if I’d like to put my feet in a pair of their new Portlander shoes to write about for Popdiatry, I threw on a Hillsboro Hops baseball cap that my cousin from Portland gave me, and quickly replied “Yes”.

SoftStarPortlandersOnDeckRight out of the box, the Portlanders reminded me of svelte, hella-durable versions of the inexpensive Karate booties I used to buy at the martial arts supply store in Chinatown for wearing around my apartment(s).

SoftStarPortlanderWelcomeThe northeastern United States (my home turf) was subsumed by a strong winter for the past six months or so. My feet have been laced up in boots for a majority of that time. The Soft Stars arrived in the mail about the same week temperatures started to rise above 60°, and memory of winter’s hangover had subsided.

SoftStarPortlanderVibramSole
Sturdily sewn to a Vibram Geo sole

 I would rather wear jeans with no underwear than shoes with no socks. Things get sweaty, particles invade, footwear gets dogged- I am firmly planted on team sockwear. Of course there are no rules; Soft Star says it’s OK to wear the Portlanders with or without socks. Even though I was wearing shorts in 70° weather, I put on some high, thin stockings, which led my photographer to start calling me Babe Ruth.

SoftStarPortlanderOutdoorsThe design of the shoe is very timeless, with a tasteful green tag on the inside of the tongue branding the company’s logo and size. Thin pieces of leather are added to the inner tongue and heel peripherals to facilitate comfy-ness, along with a little padding piece in each heel.

SoftStarPortlanderPatioOne thing that struck me oddly has nothing to do with the construction of the shoes, but rather the sizing chart Soft Star uses. SS clearly states that the shoes run small. I am a size 11. They gave me 12s, and they were still quite tight in the toe. Perhaps it’s a Pacific Northwest thing?

SoftStarPortlanderTreeStumpI do dig the shoes. After months of sporting heavy-duty winter warriors, it was refreshing to slide on something more relaxed and minimal, while keeping the high quality effects of kicks I normally wear (gorgeous leather, masterful hand-stitching, great shape). I think they’d be excellent for packing while travelling. With the minimal construction, they are easily flattenable, as to conveniently slide into a suitcase or backpack. You can certainly  pull off casual, and even business-casual in them.  The zero-drop contruction with butter leather uppers have the propensity to shape around your foot and become your best two friends. I concur that the brand delivers on their promise of making quality, functional and fun shoes. You’re sure to get a lot of good looks while wearing them. Thanks Elves.

Soft Star Shoes

Popdiatribe: Toes, Heels and Exoskeletons

I own a pair of Vibram FiveFingers Classics that I bought myself four years ago.

VibramFiveFingersClassic

I’m not a runner; I don’t wear these in the club, or to work. Living in NYC, I’m very fortunate to have a concrete backyard where I like to wear my Vibrams. Jumping rope, playing handball, doing push ups and stretches- all make me feel like more of a ninja with these on. Last week, as a result of a class action lawsuit settlement, Vibram proposed to pay out as much as $94 to anyone who bought some FiveFingers as far back as 2009. The plaintiffs say that Vibram made unsubstantiated claims that wearing FiveFingers could strengthen muscles and prevent injury. Writer James Fallows typed an excellent defense of Vibram in a recent piece. “If people actually bought these shoes for promised health benefits, then perhaps it’s fair for them to get their $94-per-pair back.” He’s not claiming a refund and neither am I. Vibram denies any wrongdoing. The proposed settlement is simply to avoid a prolonged legal battle. The company has better things to do- like make outsoles for just about every shoe company on the planet. Just like James, I have no business affiliation with Vibram beyond me buying them. I can’t help thinking someone wearing FiveFingers in an inappropriate social setting led to the suit. Perhaps a couple wore matching FiveFingers to a Met Gala, or a wedding reception in Massachusetts where some legal eagles were in attendance. Lawyer A looked at lawyer B and said “let’s make ’em pay”. Over the years I watched with interest as Vibram released more and more maximal versions of their minimalist shoes, but I continue to prefer the no-frills Classics. This legal settlement does nothing to change my view of toe shoes or Vibram. I’m sorry for those people you see wearing them at the airport/coffeeshop. 

Vision improvement medicine, or just frozen veggies?
Speaking of health claims..

In the parallel universe of high-heels, magician David Copperfield’s fiance Chloe Gosselin is launching her own line of footwear later this year. The line is made in Italy from leather and “exotic skins”.  At this time, there is no evidence that wearing some Chloes can decrease injuries and strengthen muscles, but Popdiatry recommends that you avoid running (fast) in them. Though be advised that the $850- $1600 price points may cause premature erosion to your savings account balance.

Image from Chloe Gosselin
Ssssssssssssss     Image from Chloe Gosselin

A research team at the MIT Media Lab published a paper about a new exoskeleton boot project. Similar to how an electric bike helps you effortlessly pedal up hills, these exoskeletal boots may assist soldiers carrying heavy packs, or civilians carrying beer kegs to neighborhood parties through the use of sensors and motors that mechanically aid existing leg movements. According to the Lab’s Hugh Herr: “This is the first exoskeleton that actually augments human walking and significantly reduces metabolic cost.” 

Exoskeletal prototypical boots being tested. Image: http://www.businessinsider.com
Exoskeletal prototypical boots being tested. Image: http://www.businessinsider.com

Puma linked with Alexander McQueen to create one hundred pairs of super-special (not-for-sale) soccer cleats to be given out to select associates of collaborating parties in recognition of Soccer’s World Cup in Brazil this summer.

There is still no word on the status of the stolen signed Usain Bolt Pumas which were lifted last month from an industrial estate in Croydon. The running star took to social media with an appeal to the perpetrator.

With all these health claims and lawsuits flying around, I would like to stress that Popdiatry.com is not a substitute for medical advice or medical attention. If you are experiencing foot problems of any kind, please feel free to read Popdiatry.com for information and entertainment while you are in the waiting room of a real doctor or podiatrist.  Thanks.

East Village Shoe Repair Finds Footing In Brooklyn

Under the JMZ train that runs along Broadway like a zipper attaching the Bushwick and Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhoods of Brooklyn New York, an old NYC favorite has popped back up to continue doing what they’ve expertly done for years.

East Village Shoe Repair moves to Brooklyn
      Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled footwear yearning to breathe free

The same footwear stretchers, buffing equipment, and years of experience that the fellas commanded on St. Mark’s Place has been transplanted to 1083 Broadway in Brooklyn, NY as part of the Brandhunters consignment store complex.  Think of East Village Shoe Repair as a hospital for your beloved kicks. Barring complete obliteration- there isn’t much that can stop EVSR from bringing your footwear back from near death. Resoling, re-lacing, regluing, reattaching, re-whatever it takes to get your favorite kickers back on the path- using top notch equipment from yesteryear- these guys can find a way if there is one. You might have another couple years left in those oxfords..

Congrats from Popdiatry on the new location! C

Popdiatribe: Have a Nice May

Last weekend this 700-balloon sculpture of a running shoe created by Ryan Oelrich was displayed during the annual Bloomsday race and trade show in Spokane, Washington.

Image from http://downtownspokane.kxly.com/
Image: http://downtownspokane.kxly.com

What about a running sneaker in a toaster oven?

Heating the soles off for inspiration
Heating the soles off for inspiration

Golden Harper, founder of running shoe company Altra, came up with the idea for his specialty line of trainers after doing modifications to existing running shoes. He would heat sneakers in a toaster oven to melt the glues in order to pull the chunky soles off to create minimalist prototypes. These became the precursors to Altra, which employs a thin, flat sole that is equally thick from toe to heel. In 2014, Altras can be found in over 700 running shoe stores nationwide.

Footwear brand Skechers added two-time Olympian distance runner Kara Goucher to their sponsored roster.

Feel free to start a rumor that you are interested in buying Rockport. Rockport’s parent company Adidas, is reportedly looking to sell off the dressy brand that it acquired when it bought Reebok back in ’05.

Danner Boots opened their first store outside their home state of Oregon in Renton, Washington. It will stock a huge collection of Danners, including many models which are made in the USA.

Here at Popdiatry, we advocate seeking out the ultimate in footwear comfort. This often means being cognizant of your foot’s width, which often leads to buying wider footwear. It tickled my pinky toes to learn that there is a mini-chain of shoe shops in Washington state called Wide Shoes Only. Read the article about them here.

Lina Ahn, owner of Wide Shoes Only, poses with a size 18 New Balance. Image from Heraldnet.com
Lina Ahn, owner of Wide Shoes Only, poses with some size 18 New Balances. Image from Heraldnet.com

 

 Go Nets!

Popdiatribe: Everything’s Berry

BerrycompliantTrainers
Berry compliant  950v2s Instagram.com/NewBalnce

Last Friday, while you were thinking about dinner and I was working sound at a theater in Manhattan (wear-testing a pair of Injinji toe socks*), the United States Department of Defense made a move toward ensuring that service members are outfitted head to toe with gear made in the USA. The Berry Amendment was introduced 73 years ago to promote the purchase of certain U.S. goods. Over the years, exceptions were made when it came to military training sneakers. Boots were an issue item, but most service members wore their choice of trainers. These New Balances pictured are made in Maine using soles, uppers, textile parts, and straps sourced from Massachusetts- plus laces made in Rhode Island- making it a Berry Amendment compliant product. This NB 950v2 athletic shoe is being tested by the military and may soon become available to recruits via their vouchers. U.S. Congressional reps Niki Tsongas (D-Mass), and Mike Michaud (D- Maine) were instrumental in pressuring the D.O.D. to get it right with Berry. Michaud is a bigger New Balance head than you, and even sports made-in-USA blue and yellow New Balances while campaigning for Governor. Wolverine Worldwide, who already provides Berry-compliant boots through their Bates brand, and New Balance are currently the only American companies capable of producing competitive sneakers in the US. Now that Pentagon officials have made this announcement, other brands may consider rekindling their domestic production in order to compete for these military voucher bucks.

I never heard of the evil stepsister procedure until reading Laren Stover’s piece in the New York Times. “Make them fit, Please!” is something women have been saying to foot doctors in regards to outrageously impractical high-heeled footwear. Elective cosmetic foot surgery is a thing, and there are procedures ready to treat high heel foot, hitchhikers toe, toebesity and other man-made ailments that are keeping sufferers from comfortably wearing Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, and Christian Louboutin products. Get a load of the comments after the article as well. 

Voting is now open for the 5th annual Vans Custom Culture Art Competition. Vans, who dropped some Star Wars gear this week, sends blank white shoes to 2000 high schools across the country so art classes can battle for design supremacy (and resources for their art programs).

Wellesley High School's entry
Wellesley High School says this

Click here to check all the custom Vans designs

Did you know VIbram has a line of FiveFingers for golfers?

V-Classic LR: Not your dad's golf shoes
      V-Classic LR: Not your dad’s golf shoes

* I went my first day wearing some Injinji toe-socks under some New Balance walking shoes. I was moving around all day with them and like that they allow some splay.

 

Popdiatribe: After Taxes

By law of averages, someone we interact with today wears footwear manufactured at a Yue Yuen Industrial production facility- most likely in China. Yue Yuen is the world’s biggest branded shoe and sneaker maker- think 3 stripes and the swoosh. For the past week, thousands of workers at a couple Chinese Yue Yuen factories have been in various stages of a strike; the biggest being estimated at 30,000 at a Y.Y. in Guangdong province. The issue seems on its way to being resolved in favor of the workers’ concerns. Meanwhile, Nike and Adidas look towards Vietnam as the place where a majority of their shoes will be made as wages and working conditions (hopefully) improve in China.

The guy who won the Boston Marathon wasn’t wearing Nikes, Adidas, New Balances, Under Armours, Newtons, or Altras while crossing the finish line. Wicked fast runner Meb Keflezighi has been sponsored by Skechers since 2011, and was wearing a pair from the company’s performance line of sneaks when he broke the tape on Boylston Street Monday. Next year I’d love to see him do a repeat while wearing a pair of Skechers’s infamous Shape Ups shoes.

TMZ is reporting that Chicago Bull Joakim Noah sued his former sneaker sponsor Le Coq Sportif last year. Le Coq countersued. The issue was settled last month. Noah now balls with Adidas. Today he was named the 2014 NBA defensive player of the year.

Pop boy act One Direction now have their own sneaker-shoes. Country singer Miranda Lambert debuted her own line of footwear. Brown Shoe Co. (act like you never had some Buster Browns) just celebrated 100 years on the New York Stock Exchange. Brown even had a little celebration at the NYSE building where Black Eyed Pea Fergie (has her own line with Brown) rang the closing bell Wednesday. Former prez George H.W. Bush has his own line of striped, colorful signature socks. What ? Check out GeorgeBushSocks.com

Those Bush socks are a little too loud for my tastes. In efforts to step up my sock game though- I did visit the REI store in SOHO last week and spent an inordinate amount of time in their impressively-stocked sock isles. I walked out with a purchase of Injinji toe socks- my first ever purchase of this type of sock. Look for a quick review in a future Popdiatribe.

Speaking of commanders-in-chief, the U.S. Armed forces are in the process of testing some new boot models. Last month I wrote about the Berry Amendment – that mandates the U.S. Department of Defense must give preference to domestically-produced items. For footwear this means that government-issued soldier boots must be made in America. A push to be Berry-compliant has created a little healthy competition amongst American manufacturers. Who can make the most comfortable, durable, quickest-drying boot that service members will love? Time shall tell. I’m not even sure at this time which brand produced the model below. The results of all these prototypes will certainly lead to civilian consumers getting some fresh boot options down the road.

Image from Army.mil
Image from Army.mil
ha ha
I couldn’t resist posting another still from that Dr. Scholl’s DreamWalk ad campaign. The special effects people did a great job making the womens’ shoes morph into monsters.

 

Popdiatribe: Why Suffer?

Though shiny thong sandals were on Alison Ernst’s feet, it was an orange and black athletic shoe that she chose to pull from her purse and throw at Hillary Rodham Clinton last Thursday during some industry convention speech in Las Vegas. If the flying shoe was an Asics, Adidas, New Balance, NIke or Puma, it could have been made at a Yue Yuen Industrial factory in China, Vietnam or Indonesia. Those wondering how a seemingly infinite stream of new styles from the world’s biggest brands appear on shelves with such rapidity- consider Yue Yuen a manufacturing power pitcher- employing over 400,000 workers to meet brands’ needs, and faraway demands of sneaker super-consumers camped in long lines outside stores on new-release eves.

Image from http://instagram.com/dwxasn619
Image from
http://instagram.com/dwxasn619

Law enforcement meets workers. On the other side of the world they meet buyers.

Monday, at a Yue Yuen production facility in China’s Guangdong province, a number of thousand workers organized a strike. Issues pertaining to pay, social security, and other workplace concerns landed on the negotiating table. Read what U.S. based not-for-profit organization China Labor Watch announced about the situation. One wonders what a Yue Yuen worker might think if they’d seen coverage of a Supreme Nike Air Foamposite release in New York City a couple weeks ago that was shut down due to safety concerns (crazy line).  Whether supplying in Guangdong or demanding on Lafayette Street, I’m confident things will proceed in a peaceful, fair direction. There’s never been a better time to be cognizant of the true purpose of footwear- the truth of what you’re buying and making. What does it mean to you? Does your relationship to a certain brand come from deep within? More likely, it’s a certain style you like. Let your sensibilities guide you.

Less more much?  LIke what you like. Explore best versions of styles you gravitate toward.

A liar is someone who claims they never searched for the perfect shoe. Why pay attention to the craft of your footwear the way you pay attention to your health? They are you. That nicely boxed product could be an investment, not disposable socks with tread stuck on them to be Ebayed or Craigslisted- rather like property or hairstyles that flux with you. Popdiatry imagines footwear as an almost extra skin. Like horse’s hooves, they become your exo-layer on this giant treadstone Earth, providing shelter for two vessels requiring air, water and sun. Think of our ancestors walking long before the days of branding. What would they think of Old Navy two dollar flip-flop sales ? Would they think we’re brilliant eagles for selling a pair of foam-molded vessels on an electronic-bidding site?

It may help dodging flying shoes if you avoided wearing high-heels like the ones pictured in the coming-soon image for “Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe “- an exhibit exploring chopines, stilettos and life showing this September at Brooklyn Museum (curated by Lisa Small). Killer like killer app, not killer like the Texas woman who was convicted last week of killing her boyfriend using a high-heeled shoe for a tomahawk. Apparently, certain types of high-heels contain a mysterious power that raises wearers’ superego- if not center of gravity- while increasing the risks of injuring the ankle and/or developing knee osteoarthritis. The taste for danger explains a little. From what I hear these babies are often uncomfortable, and unsupportive to the point you’ll see gals barefooting through public parks carrying rather than sporting. Even Dr. Scholl’s compares them to evil monsters in their new Dreamwalk insoles for women advertisements.

DrSchollsDreamwalkAd

Dear Dr. Scholl, I would like a prescription for one Dreamwalk promotional USB stick to give to my aunt for Christmas.

Image from http://instagram.com/evcurlgurl
Image from http://instagram.com/evcurlgurl

 What do I like? What you like. There is no right shoe.

In a continuing effort to foster understanding about why humans wear mega-heels for prolonged periods, I look forward to watching some of the short films that will be presented along side the objects at the Brooklyn exhibit. Hopefully no one will be buzzed by a flying platform shoe, or threatened by that Louboutin Printz; wearing some protective gear couldn’t hurt- maybe some boots with wings would emit mercurial yin for the high-heeled yang, and enable flights to neverland- a world where everyone has a few really great pairs of shoes and the people who made them are happy.

Spotted at Brandhunters "Night of Fashion" - Curtis and his tricked out boots
Spotted at Brandhunters “Night of Fashion” – Curtis and his tricked out boots

Hopefully you are happy with your footwear. Why suffer for or of it?

Pics From American Converse All Star Factory in the 90s

“How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993, Simon and Schuster Books for Young Readers), is a picture book that takes readers through the creation of sneakers- specifically the Converse All Star– at a former Converse factory in Lumberton, North Carolina!

HowAreSneakersMadeCOverI remember around the turn of the century when I heard that Converse would no longer be producing their All Star shoes in the USA. The company had been rescued from a brush with bankruptcy and would soon be purchased by Nike. I picked up a couple pairs of the all black high tops and kept them in my bullpen.

ConverseFactorySoleAttaching
A worker machine presses soles ro uppers at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

I thought All Stars were good for BMX freestyle bicycling. Their lack of girth around the foot and archless flat rubber soles made dancing on the pedals, tires and stunt-pegs more natural, as opposed to bulkier basketball-type sneaks.

GluingToecapsOntoAllStars
A worker dips an All Star toe in adhesive for toe-cap attachment.at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

When I became more of a mountain-biker in the 00s,  All Stars remained on the roster. Whenever I tried to walk far wearing them, the tongues would always slide to the outer side of my foot- even when wearing proper socks. I started to get into footwear with more developed leather uppers and advanced footbeds.

AttachingEyeletsToAllStars
A worker pokes metal eyelet washers into an All Star at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

My last pair of Made-in-the-USA All Stars “died” a couple years ago. I cut them apart in reverse to see how they were constructed (before Michael from Allston Massachusetts gifted Popdiatry with this excellent book).

Converse_Allstar_toecaps
All that remains of my last All Stars

If I desire the All Star body again, I would probably go with some Etiko clones. Etiko, not to be confused with Ekito, is a post-millennial shoe and clothing company that pays  special attention to fairtrade issues, and goes for eco-friendly manufacturing practices. Since I walk a lot these days, the flat arch design of this type of shoe is not optimal; but for certain activities like bike riding, weight training, or just lamping, the classic no-frill design of a “Chuck” may be just what the podiatrist ordered.

Popdiatribe: Mad Marchness

No sooner did I press “publish” on my post about fraying-pant-leg-condition a few weeks ago, then I discovered these Atlas boots from shoe company Artola:

Frayed pant legs no more
Frayed pant legs no more

Their design incorporates a molded leather heel piece that keeps sagging pant legs from scraping the ground. Thumbtack guy take note.

Not long after Tony Wroten’s Nike Jordan sneaker fell apart during an NBA game last week, rumours hit the net that the Jordan brand itself may discontinue in 2015. “There is absolutely no truth to this rumor…” according to Michael Jordan’s Business Manager Estee Portnoy (via smokingsection.net). What’s unclear is if MJ personally called Wroten’s agent to apologize for the sneaker blowout. NBC Sports says that didn’t happen.

Pharrell Williams hooked up with Adidas, New Balance dropped some Golf shneakers, Terra Nova was awarded a contract from the Canadian government to manufacture boots for Canadian armed forces at the company’s factory in Harbour Grace. Here in the US, American footwear manufacturing is lobbying congress over the Berry amendment, which roughly states that the Department Of Defense is required to give preference to domestically produced, manufactured or homegrown products, especially foods, clothing, fabrics and certain metals. An exemption to that amendment includes athletic shoes, which aren’t considered military-issued uniform pieces. Soldiers are wearing their own Nikes, Adidas, and other kicks not made in the U.S.A. while training. Wolverine, New Balance, Danner and Lacrosse have all come forth with compliant products that are 100% made in the U.S.A. and are relying on a growing expectation that U.S. service members should be equipped in U.S.-made gear. Read details in the International Business Times.

Popdiatribe: Springing Ahead

Not a even a hot month after Manu Ginobili’s shoe instantaneously ripped apart during a live NBA game, a similar instance occurred on (Philadelphia 76ers) Tony Wroten’s foot during a game against the Pacers on March 14th. This near-viral malfunction reportedly prompted a phoned apology from Michael Jordan himself. Meanwhile,  the Nike Jordan imprint announced release of their first ever running shoe- the Flight Runner, this week.

On the baseball front,  former MLB hit-master Frank Thomas has taken issue with a Reebok re-release of some sneaks he once endorsed in the 90s- issue being this endorsement ended long ago. Read more here

The trailer for “Foot“, an independent documentary film that explores barefooting, is now online:

Footwear chain Shoe Carnival is blessing Chicago, Lansing, Detroit, Indianapolis, Grand Rapids, Chattanooga, Charlotte, and Bowling Green with new stores this month. The weekend of March 29th will be “grand-opening” day in these locales with drawings, giveaways, and prizes all weekend.

Adidas Stan Smiths returned to the marketplace looking more like the originals than ever (with Stan’s mug on the tongue), along with some very modern versions of the air-hole-striped standards.